Q: Why does my basement leak?
A: Water is attracted to and trapped in the excavated area around your foundation creating water pressure around the basement. If there are cracks or openings in your foundation, seepage will occur.

Q: Can I keep water away from my basement by extending my downspouts and grading the earth away from the foundation?
A: No. While those are always good things to do, and will help minimize seepage during light rains, inevitably when it rains very hard, and the ground is saturated, groundwater will seep back into the excavated area around your foundation, even under garage slabs and room additions. Your basement needs to be watertight regardless of the amount of water outside of it.

Q: Is it better to have the waterproofing work done from the inside or the outside of the home?
A: That depends on the nature of the problem as well as how accessible the areas are. Generally permanent repairs can be done from either interior or exterior but the costs can be substantially different so you should investigate both approaches.

Q: I have a crack in my concrete wall that is not leaking, does it need repair?
A: Cracks occur primarily due to the shrinkage of the concrete mix and construction practices when the house is built. Cracks will however deteriorate over time due to moisture penetration and soil pressure against the walls. It is recommended that all cracks be repaired prior to finishing a basement or storing valuable items there.

Q: What is the best method of concrete crack repair?
A: While there are numerous ways to temporarily patch cracks, to get a permanent repair you must do 2 things: stop moisture penetration from the outside and eliminate or accommodate any wall movement. From the outside this requires excavation to the footing and the application of a durable, flexible membrane. Most repairs can be achieved with less expense and mess by injecting an epoxy resin throughout the crack from the inside thus sealing the crack on the outside as well as welding the wall together back to its original strength.

Q: How do I know if a crack is a structural concern?
A: Most cracks are simply shrinkage cracks that are subject to seepage but pose no structural threat to a home. Some cracks however, left untreated, can cause future severe damage to the structure. Some of the telltale signs that can accompany a structurally significant crack are: The crack is significantly wider at the top than at the bottom. The crack is offset, not on a smooth plane. Cracking in interior walls upstairs. Doors or windows won’t shut easily. Exterior brickwork is cracked or bulging. Floors are not level.

Q: My home doesn’t have a sump pump, do I need one?
A: Probably not, many older homes were built without pumps because their drainage tiles were diverted to city sewers, field drains or retention areas. Most new homes are built with pumps which are critical to keeping the water table at a safe level beneath the basement floor.

Q: Do I really need a battery backup system for my pump?
A: Yes! If you have a pump that runs even occasionally, you should have a backup system (powered by either a battery or self-starting generator). When (not if) an electric pump fails, you can take substantial seepage and water damage. An adequately sized backup system is cheap insurance against this type of catastrophe.

Q: How do I know if my drain tiles are working?
A: Since the footing tiles are not visible and typically cannot be adequately viewed by a sewer camera, the only way to determine if they are working properly is to note if there is seepage through the floor, or around the floor/wall joint. If such seepage occurs, and your sump pump is working, then your drain tile system is not.

Q: Do I need covers over my window wells?
A: Yes, modern wells have drains in them that can be easily clogged by debris. The primary purpose of the covers is to protect those drain caps, they can also prevent children and animals from harmful falls.

Q: What causes the musty odor in my basement?
A: Most of these odors are caused by mold spores. A high moisture content will create an environment for this unhealthy mold growth. In addition to stopping any active seepage problems, you should install a dehumidification system in the basement to lower the humidity level.

Q: What is that white chalky substance on my walls?
A: Efflorescence. As moisture migrates through concrete, it creates “free lime” which manifests itself as efflorescence. This can be the result of moisture penetration from the exterior but can also be attributed to a high humidity level in the basement air.

Q: I’m getting water seeping in over the top of my foundation wall, how is that sealed?
A: The first task is to determine if the problem is below grade. Typically the top of the foundation wall should be higher than the ground level. If this is the case, then the problem is likely a caulking or tuckpointing issue with the above grade walls. If the grade level is too high, and cannot be lowered, contact Perma-Seal Basement Systems for advice.

Q: What is the best time of year to have waterproofing done?
A: Most repairs can be done year round, even during extremely cold or wet weather. Winter is actually a good time for repairs as most contractors are not as busy. Delaying a waterproofing repair is never a good option, water problems only get worse and the potential for additional damage increases.